Recipe from Mussels by Sergio Herman
Another twist on a great classic. The magical mussel juices provide extra depth to this carbonara, with its briny elegance and the anisey touch of fennel.
FOR THE CLASSIC MUSSELS
½ pound (250 grams) mussels
½ cup onion, diced
½ stalk celery, diced
1 stem leaf celery, diced
Small clove of garlic, minced
1 sprig thyme, leaves only
½ tbsp freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup white wine (50 ml)
1 tbsp + 1 tsp salted butter (16 g), cubed
FOR THE CARBONARA
4 ounces (125 grams) spaghetti
1 ¾ ounces (50 grams) guanciale or smoked pork belly,
finely diced (Italian specialty food store or online)
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
6 tablespoons (40 grams) fennel, finely chopped
Cook the mussels according to the classic method. Fill the sink, large mussel pot, or other large pan with plenty of water and rinse the mussels. Drain, then refill with fresh water and rinse the mussels two more times. Discard any shells that float to the surface because they might be spoiled. Also discard any shells that are cracked or broken.
Add the vegetables, garlic, and thyme into a mussel pot over high heat. Place the mussels on top of the vegetables. Season them with a generous amount of black pepper and pour in the white wine. Cover the pot.
After a few minutes, check to see whether the liquid has foamed over the mussels, then give the pot a good shake. Make sure that the vegetables and the mussels that were on the bottom are now on top. Put the lid back on the pot and return to a boil—the liquid will foam over the mussels again.
Remove the lid and place the cubes of butter between the mussels, and allow the butter to melt and combine with the luscious liquid at the bottom of the pot.
Remove the top shells and allow the mussels to cool slightly in the cooking liquid.
Cook the spaghetti al dente in salted water according to the packet instructions. Drain, but save the cooking water.
Meanwhile, heat a nonstick frying pan over medium-high heat and fry the guanciale in its own fat until crispy. Remove the guanciale from the pan, and sweat the shallot, garlic, and fennel for a few minutes in the same fat. Season with salt and pepper.
Put the egg yolks in a bowl and whisk them together with the Parmesan cheese and 2 tablespoons of the pasta water.
With tongs or a perforated skimmer, transfer the pasta to the frying pan and turn off the heat. Add the crispy guanciale. Pour the egg-cheese mixture over the pasta and mix well, adding another 2 tablespoons of the pasta water, 2 tablespoons of the mussel cooking liquid, and the mussels, until the sauce has thickened nicely.
Finish with the finely chopped pistachios, bronze fennel or dill, a generous pinch of pepper, and some extra Parmesan cheese. Serve at once, straight from the hot pan.
TIP
Leaf celery (also known as Chinese celery or cutting celery) can be difficult to find in some grocery stores. Substitute the leaves of celery stalks if it’s unavailable.
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